Santorini; calm within chaos


Santorini, Greece sits 980 feet above the water, on the edge of a sheer cliff. It is essentially sitting on the rim of a colossal volcano, an ancient one, overlooking the central lagoon that is the caldera leftover from a massive explosion that took place around 3600 years ago. This tablecloth from the Stani Tavern pretty much gives you the idea.
To view Santorini from the sea is impressive. All along the tops of the remaining volcanic islands the white buildings are densely packed together giving the illusion from a distance of a dusting of snow along the tops of the cliffs.

Many visitors to Santorini arrive by cruise ship, as we did, and visit the main town of Thira. After a tender ride from ship to shore (cruise ships can’t dock in Santorini) you can make your way up the 980 foot cliff face to Thira either by cable car, donkey, or on foot. I personally recommend the cable car; for only three euro you are whisked quickly to the top and the view as you ascend is brilliant. Also the cable car doesn’t reek, defecate enroute, or try and clobber your legs against the road walls as it climbs, unlike some of the more disorderly donkeys. Going up on foot is also not recommended, again mainly because of the donkeys… or more accurately what they leave behind.

Santorini is a truly popular sightseer destination in Greece, well known for its startling views, and wicked night life. We were day trippers so we couldn’t enjoy the celebrated night spots, but I have it on good authority that if you enjoy nightclubs and bars, Santorini will not disappoint you.

The narrow streets of Santorini, typical of many old Greek towns, are snugly filled with shops, restaurants and clubs… and tourists. It is hectic and chaotic, yet it is easy to find some peace and order amid the chaos if you look for it. Almost everything in Santorini is along the Cliffside because every restaurant, club, bar, and hotel wanted the best views and so everyone clamored for their place along the cliff edge. As a result, it is not hard to find a nice patio bar or restaurant sitting on, or even extending beyond, the edge of the cliff allowing you an amazing panoramic view of the lagoon below. There is something particularly serene about sitting in the sun, with a beer in your hand, and looking down on the world. Even though you are surrounded by the buzz of the busy Greek town, all the chaos can not penetrate your “cone of silence” as you survey your kingdom.

Of course, caveat emptor; be aware that the better the view, the higher the prices will be. We were sitting in a lovely location with excellent view as you can see from these pictures, and a simple Greek salad was ten euro. That’s about twice the price of a restaurant further in from the edge.

All in all however, I would say Santorini is deserving of its reputation. Even for a day tripper or cruise ship traveler it is an amazing place to witness, and it has something to offer everyone. But if your leery of heights, you may want to stay to the inside streets and away from the cliff edge cafes and bars.

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Einstein’s not dead; he’s slinging Doners in Kusadasi.

For me, Kusadasi never gets tired. You can get everything you need and it’s all within walking distance of the port. No taxi, bus or trouble required. Of course the vendors can get on your nerves sometimes; with their constant requests for you to come into their shop or restaurant, but then again they are always happy and (usually) polite, and the attempts they make at guessing where you’re from are always entertaining. Today I was from Chicago and my friend Amber was from Japan, at least according to the vendors. Then again I would rather have storekeepers inviting me in, asking me what I want and guessing where I am from than ignoring me like in many western stores.

Every time I come here I see something new added to the shopping or eating experience, today it was Einstein’s. While we were walking around and browsing the street shops we were also on the hunt for a Doner place for lunch when we came across Einstein. We passed by him at first, but like two small elementary particles we were drawn back to Einstein. It turns out the service was great and the food was good, and of course the prices were relatively low (pun intended). So if you are going to Kusadasi and want to enjoy a good Doner served by Einstein, I recommend him. When you’re done your lunch I promise Einstein will be happy to pose for a picture with you like he did with my friend Amber. (She does look a little Japanese I suppose).

You have to admire the capitalist business model that Kusadasi has become. Whatever you want, literally, is available with a smile. Over the years this tourist port has adapted to what the visitors and tourists want. Not just the cruise ship tourists but all tourists. If last season several tourists asked around for a “jingle jangle” then the next time you visit Kusadasi I guarantee you there will be three “jingle jangle” shops open. They want to sell you what you want to buy. Everything from genuine articles to genuine fakes all conveniently available in one easy to access place.

Of course some very entrepreneurial vendors branch out and offer several types of service or sales from the same store front. I couldn’t help but be impressed by Billy’s Jewelry and Real Estate. As my friend Amber put it, “not looking for any land, then how about a nice new watch”?

Of course Kusadasi, and Turkey in general have much to offer any visitor; thousands of years of culture and history, and of course apple tea and hookah’s. But if you’re anything like most of the crew onboard the cruise ships and you just want to do some quick shopping and barter for some great deals and have a nice lunch, then you can’t beat Kusadasi.
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